The short version
Beauty opens the door. Evidence decides what enters the index.
Every maker is considered across six dimensions. We read the maker's own published information, examine available product detail and independent evidence where it exists, and name what we cannot verify. A high score means a maker performs unusually well within this deliberately selective directory; it does not mean every garment is equally strong.
Scores can change when materials, production, policies or evidence change. Payment, gifts, affiliate relationships and sponsorship never add points or guarantee inclusion.
Six leaves in the ledger
The maker rubric
100 points in all25 points
Materials & construction
Are the cloth, components and methods suited to the garment's purpose and price?
We look for: Fiber specificity, fabric weight, seams and finishes, hardware, lining, pattern matching and construction detail.
20 points
Longevity & repairability
Is the piece likely to remain useful, beautiful and repairable beyond its first season?
We look for: Replaceable components, alteration room, care burden, spare parts, repair services and evidence from long-term wear.
20 points
Transparency & production
Does the maker give readers enough specific information to make an informed decision?
We look for: Country of manufacture, material percentages, production partners, certifications, traceable claims and candid limitations.
15 points
Distinctiveness & design
Does the work have a recognizable point of view and solve its design problem with intention?
We look for: Original proportion, coherent collections, thoughtful details, functional beauty and distance from disposable trend mimicry.
10 points
Fit & access
How well can a reader understand whether the garment will work for their body and life?
We look for: Useful measurements, size breadth, fit notes, model information, adaptive thinking and realistic product photography.
10 points
Value & customer experience
Is the full experience proportionate to the price and promises being made?
We look for: Pricing logic, communication, shipping clarity, returns, warranty, customer care and consistency between listing and garment.
Reading the number
What the bands mean
Because the directory is curated before scoring, its published scores naturally cluster high. The number is most useful as a doorway into the evidence—not as a race between makers.
- 90-100Distinguished
- A strongly evidenced maker with a clear point of view and no major unresolved concern.
- 80-89Strong
- A compelling maker with meaningful strengths and some limitations readers should understand.
- 70-79Promising
- Worth watching or considering selectively while important evidence or consistency develops.
- Below 70Not presently indexed
- We usually wait for stronger evidence, clearer practice or more consistent product before inclusion.
Rules in the margin
What the score can—and cannot—say
Evidence before inference
Specific, current and attributable information carries more weight than broad sustainability language. Missing evidence is marked as unknown; it is not quietly treated as proof.
Maker score, garment judgment
The maker score describes the house overall. Individual garments still require their own assessment of composition, construction, fit, price and purpose.
Context matters
Technical activewear, linen day dresses and couture gowns solve different problems. We assess fitness for purpose, not conformity to one material or aesthetic ideal.
Corrections remain open
Makers and readers may send sourced corrections. Makers may clarify facts, but they do not preview, purchase or approve our conclusions.